In Rome, Valentina looks at the past and the present

ROME — The Spanish Steps, one of the most iconic places in Città Eterna, provided the perfect backdrop for tonight’s Valentine Couture show. The runway show may seem exotic to foreigners, but for Italians it brings back memories of Donna sotto le stelle, the hugely successful national television program that aired from 1986 to 2003 and featured la crême Italian designers presenting their collections to the public.

The House of Valentine took part. And a very young Pierpaolo Piccioli, years before he took charge of the storied Roman house, was one of the onlookers standing outside watching the shows broadcast from the steps. The link was intentional.

“I felt like an outsider at the time, and I still do,” Piccioli said during the preview. “With this collection, I wanted to create an imaginary dialogue with Mr. Valentino, the founder, and paint a new picture in the same place, promoting my vision of beauty, which is much more open than it was at the time. I wanted to move what was once peripheral to the center.”

This meant a diverse cast of models in terms of body type, age and race, although the male ideal presented at the show remained narrow. Lately, Piccioli has pushed a socio-political agenda that is provocative and relevant, but hard to find in the clothes themselves. What’s more, today’s collection, entitled “Beginning”, had almost no sign of Valentino Garavani: the color red and glamor were there, but nothing else.

Instead, it was a collection of Piccioli tropes, from beautiful bright colors to dry drama and silver faces. The Spanish Steps added magic to everything. But what this outing lacked was the grace and poetic ease that are also central to Piccioli’s signature.

https://www.businessoffashion.com/reviews/fashion-week/in-rome-valentino-looks-to-past-and-present/ In Rome, Valentina looks at the past and the present

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